Recently we had the opportunity to talk with Elizabeth Burns, Michigan Glass Artist and Product Specialist.  Skilled in many areas of both Cold and Warm Glass, she offered some tips for an area of fusing/lampworking that is often overlooked...Working with Enamels.  You're sure to find the following tips helpful with your enameling projects!

Fusing to Glass or Metal with Powdered Enamels: (link to product)

• Regardless of your enameling surface, always make sure that your glass or metal has been carefully cleaned.
• When working with powder enamels, the maximum firing temperature is 1500 to 1550 degrees F.  Of course, Elizabeth emphasizes, this can differ from kiln to kiln, and this is the result of voltage pull from outlet to outlet.
• "Firing time" is relative to the size of the piece being fired, as well as the application in which the enamel may have been applied.  Just like any other aspect of fusing, "firing time"  becomes second nature after you have become familiar with your particular kiln.
• Maturation temperatures for powder enamels tend to be about 1350 degrees F.
• The bonding temperature for these enamels tends to be about 1250 degrees F (when overlaying or wanting to "bond" between your 1st and 2nd layers of enamel for a detailed piece)
• The best plan of action when enameling either glass or metal is to apply thin, even layers.  Even if you are planning on applying multiple layers to try and achieve a certain brilliance or depth of color, you will always have the best results by applying thin even layers for each firing.
• There is a term/phrase that you may hear, which is used in the enameling industry, "three grains high".  This is a great phrase to help you remember the thickness of which to apply a layer of enamel.
• When preparing enamels to paint on glass or metal, use Thompson Klyr Fire.  This liquid provides a great medium in which to suspend the enamels, in order to create a paint-like consistency.  Elizabeth particulary likes Klyr Fire because it adds body to the water, and once dry, will crust and hold onto the piece as an adhesive.
• Elizabeth likes Thompson enamels because they are certified compatible with both Spectrum and Bullseye glass.

Acrylic Enamels:

• Since acrylic enamels are ground finer than the average powder enamel, they do tend to be a bit more sensitive to higher temperatures.
• Acrylic enamels are best fired at 1200+ degrees F, but below 1300 degrees F.  So, Elizabeth cautions that you watch your firing carefully when in the process zone.  Temperature varies here, as always, due to the size of the piece and the manner in which the enamel was applied (thick/thin).

Enamels and Lusters For Beadmaking:

• If you wish to apply more than one layer of enamel to a bead or to achieve more even coverage, roll the bead and fire one layer at a time.
• When using lusters while beadmaking, keep in mind that lusters have a very high metal content, making it harder for multiple layers to stick to the molten glass surface.  Don't try to over-do it!  After your first layer is applied there is less molten glass exposed to pick up any remaining luster you may have wanted to apply.  In other words, Elizabeth explains, the luster doesn't want to stick to the luster, instead it only wants to stick to the hot molten glass bead itself.  That is why beadmakers should only use lusters to achieve a metallic luster effect, not as an opaque coverage.
• Remember that lusters may also be used in your fusing projects!
• When using powder enamels in beadmaking, simply roll your molten bead in the desired powder enamel color, then allow to fire onto your bead while in the flame

Other Enamel Products:

• Don't forget to experiment with some of the other forms that enamels take besides powder.
• Thread enamels are thin colored fibers which are great for firing onto enamel for line effects or scrolling.  But be careful!  You can "lose" them when doing your last firing!
• Jewel Lump enamels are great for thick jewel-like appearances when fired.  These create a great effect when enameling on metal beads.

Some words of caution:

• Remember that some enamels are lead free (Thompson's) and others aren't!
• When in doubt, the only way to tell whether an enamel contains lead or not, aside from doing a chemical test for lead (often too expensive for the average artist to perform!), is to perform a weight/density test.  This is done by weighing packages of the same volume of enamel.  You can be certain that any enamel containing lead will naturally weigh more.
• Finally, if you use lead enamels...be sure to use D-Lead Hand Soap, to clean your hands, and work surfaces.  Wear protective clothing that is washed separately from your regular wash.  And, of course, no matter what enamels you use, wear a respirator!!!

We'd like to thank Elizabeth for her time, and the enameling insights that she has provided.  We'd also like to wish her and Richard Burns "Congratulations" on the recent addition to their family ... the lovely "Miss Ella"!  Best of Luck!!!

If you are interested in working with enamels, you may be consider purchasing Glass Enameling or Contemporary Glass Enameling by Kay Bain Weiner.  These books can be found in our Art Glass Books under Fusing and Kiln-Forming!

Have Fun...and keep those kilns and torches Glowing Bright!